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Plumbing
Dishwasher Obstruction Removal
Faucet Dripping
Frozen Pipes
Hard to Turn Shower Faucet
Hole In Sewer Pipe
Low Water Pressure
New Floor Under Toilet
Not Enough Hot Water In Shower
Rusty Water Removal
Shower Leaking Into Basement
Smell In Bathroom
Water Heater Leaking
Winterizing
Heating
Furnace Repair
Gas Smell After Cleaning The Furnace
Moisture Build Up on Windows
Not Enough Heat or A/C on 2nd Floor
Air
Conditioning
Air Condition Just Stopped
Air Conditioning Maintenance
Concrete Slab Under Compressor For Replacement
Ventilation Problem
Dishwasher
Obstruction For Removal Back To Top
Q:
My
dishwasher is leaking into my basement, which is finished.
I need to get my dishwasher out in order to repair it or to
replace it. Our Formica countertop attaches to a tile wall,
therefore it can't be lifted. The previous owners installed
a new floor, which is preventing me from getting the dishwasher
out. Any suggestions?
A:
It
would have to be assumed that you have already called a plumbing
or appliance repair professional to see if the dishwasher
can be fixed where it is or you just want to treat yourself
with a nice brand new one with some of the great new features
they have to offer.
However, if the leak has caused damage to the basement, which
needs to be repaired, or the professional tells you the dishwasher
is beyond repair, then the dishwasher will have to come out.
Since dishwashers dimensions are all close to the same, the
easiest way to accomplish that will be to remove some of the
flooring that can be replaced more easily than the counter
top and tile wall. However, you will need to contact some
general contractors who specialize in home repair to come
take a look at your situation to determine the best, most
economical course.
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Faucet Dripping Back
To Top
Q:
I have a leak in my bathtub. I attempted
to change the stem but cannot remove the handle of the faucet.
I am afraid to force it and break a pipe inside. What can
I do to loosen the handle?
A:
I
know exactly what you are talking about. There is a very handy
tool available for such a problem as yours called a handle
puller. This tool can be purchased from any large home hardware
store or home center for less than $20. Without this tool
you might break the handle or stem and would need to hire
a licensed plumber to come repair it. Be careful, in some
cases the handle puller can damage or break the handle or
stem too.
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Frozen Pipes Back
To Top
Q:
Recently
the weather dropped below freezing for a few days. When we
came home from work, we noticed we had no water coming from
our kitchen sink. I checked all other faucets, and they are
fine. Is there a way to unthaw the pipes without having to
tear into the wall?
A:
There
is no easy solution or quick fix for this one. The wall where
the pipe is frozen needs to be heated from both sides (tented
on the outside if necessary). The real problem lies in the
fact that if the pipe is frozen it is more than likely cracked
also. So once defrosted you're left with a broken and flooding
pipe in the wall.
You need to call a professional plumber who is equipped with
a thawing machine that uses an electric current through clamped
leads attached to each side of the affected area. This is
the safest method to defrost it to prevent further damage
to the pipe. Once the water begins to flow, a repair to one
or more burst sections may be necessary and test. Then you
will need to insulate the pipe and wall cavity and patch the
wall if opened for access to repair. The problem will persist
in all un-insulated exterior wall cavities where pipe is run,
so plan ahead and schedule the work to start before the winter
season.
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Hard To Turn Shower Faucet Back
To Top
Q:
The shower handles in our 24-year-old
home are getting harder and harder to turn the water on! What
should we do?
A:
Of
course, it is difficult to diagnose your problem without seeing
it. However, it sounds like the valve stem is worn and needs
to be replaced. Some manufactures have repair kits you can
purchase to take care of this problem. Others such as Symmons
& Moen have replacement cartridges available. Normally
it’s a waste of time to try and lubricate your old part.
I wouldn’t even try.
If your make and model is a common type, any plumbing or home
improvement store should have the part. Most people who rate
themselves as average or better at home improvements can get
in a troublesome situation to attempt this job.
If you damage the valve body in the process of the repair,
the complete valve has to be removed and replaced. This is
a job for a qualified licensed plumbing firm.
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Hole in Sewer Pipe Back
To Top
Q:
My
outside sewer line has a hole in the pipe. For the last ten
years I have had the pipe snaked to clear the root obstruction.
I need a permanent solution. What is my next step?
A:
Thanks
for your inquiry. It sounds like you need to have part of
your underground sewer pipe dug up and replaced. For that
you will need a plumber with a backhoe.
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Low Water Pressure Back
To Top
Q:
Why has faucet suddenly lost water pressure?
A:
First, make sure that the shut-off valve under the sink is
all the way on.
If it is, then you very likely have some foreign material
restricting the flow somewhere within your faucet.
The apparatus used to restrict water in faucets also creates
the faucet to catch grit and sediment with just one screw-off
screen. Carefully take the aerator at the end of the spout
apart and check for sediment. After putting it back together,
it will probably work fine.
If not, then it's time to call a professional plumber to further
diagnose the problem.
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New Floor Under Toilet Back
To Top
Q:
I
recently installed hardwood floors in my house. In the process
I had to remove a toilet. What do I need to do now that the
toilet flange is now 3/4" below the surface of the new
wood floor?
A:
As
long as the gap is only about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, you can use
two wax rings, either two regular ones or one regular one
with a deep seal on top, and then attach the toilet with extra
long closet bolts. However, if the gap were much bigger you
would need to call a professional plumber to install an extension
flange depending on the existing flange condition.
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Not Enough Hot Water In Shower Back
To Top
Q:
I
have a problem with hot water in the shower. The hot water
comes on quickly but it seems the hot water starts to get
cold by itself after a couple of minutes. Only the shower
seems to be affected. What is my problem?
A:
If
you are heating your water by a tankless coil (typically inside
an oil-fired boiler), you may have an inadequate supply of
hot water coming from the source. The two most common causes
are: 1) Excessive water pressure supplying the coil without
the proper flow-restricting device, 2) poor coil fin condition
due to corrosion or build-up.
For cause #1 you must have a plumber install or replace the
proper flow restrictor, and for cause #2 you can try having
a professional perform a coil-cleaning agent procedure that
may only help and not completely solve the problem without
replacing the whole tankless coil. If the tankless coil proves
to be in need of replacement, always consider the condition
of the boiler. If the boiler is old and/or in poor condition,
it is not uncommon to replace the whole boiler resulting in
a wise decision for many valuable reasons.
If you are heating your water by a water heater (tank style),
you may have a problem with your shower valve. The possibility
of a stoppage in the copper piping system is highly unusual.
Unlike old galvanized steel pipes, copper pipes rarely corrode
on the interior of the pipe. Therefore, other than some minor
oxidation, the pipes stay free flowing.
I suggest looking toward the shower valve for the cause of
your problems. When the rubber parts in the valve get worn
and distorted from old age, they can also swell up causing
restrictions in the waterways of the valve. This condition
(swelling) increases as the temperature of the water traveling
through the valve increases. It's not uncommon for these rubber
parts to also break off from the valve components, and travel
into an orifice or port in the valve.
At this point you (or your plumber) will have to flush out
the valve, remove any debris, lubricate all moving parts and
replace all worn components and washers.
A word of caution: the body of the shower valve is hidden
in the wall, and not readily accessible, so care should be
taken not to cause any damage to the valve body. Unlike a
kitchen or sink faucet, replacement of the shower valve is
much more difficult and requires a higher level of skill.
If required I suggest this would be a job for a professional
plumber.
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Rusty Water Removal Back
To Top
Q:
Does
a water softener remove rust from the water? If not, how should
this be done?
A:
A
water softener has the ability to remove iron. The hardness
of the water and the capacity of the resin bed will determine
the quantity of iron the softener can remove. If there is
sediment in the water, then a pre-sediment filter in front
of the softener will help.
We recommend that a water analysis be performed and a water
treatment professional be consulted prior to making any type
of investment in water conditioning equipment. A separate
iron filter may also be necessary.
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Shower Leaking Into Basement
Back To Top
Q:
When
showering, water leaks to our basement. We have part of the
ceiling open because of an attempt to find it several years
ago. No plumbers have been here. We use a bucket to catch
the water. Also if you take a bath and the water goes in to
the overflow drain then it leaks in another area of the basement.
It is not possible for a home project but maybe you could
enlighten me on what to look for when finding a plumber so
this does not become a quite expensive repair if necessary.
A:
These
leaks are probably unrelated and possibly not as serious (or
expensive) as you fear. It sounds like the connections under
your drains could be loose, so when water leaks, gravity pulls
in down along the pipes into the basement.
Letting the water leak and possibly damage building materials
and furnishings could potentially be far more expensive than
getting them repaired promptly. If other damage has occurred,
you may need more than a plumber to make other repairs in
your home.
In the case of the shower, it could be as simple as a loose
connection or as serious as needing a new shower pan and trap.
The tub overflow may just need to be cleaned out or completely
removed, taken apart and replaced. No matter how simple or
complicated it is, you will need a plumber to come figure
it out and make the repairs.
I recommend you call two or three different plumbers and discuss
your projects on the phone. Nowadays most plumbers don't offer
free estimates for service calls such as this and will have
minimum service charges for coming if you don't hire them
to do the work. But, if you do some "comparison shopping"
over the phone to determine their minimum fees, schedules,
warranties, you should be able to avoid extra service or trip
charges by choosing one plumber to come do everything for
you in one trip.
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Smell In Bathroom Back
To Top
Q:
In
the last few days, a terrible odor has developed in our bathroom.
A neighbor suggested that maybe gasses are leaking into the
room from a pipe.
A:
It
does sound like you may smell sewer gas from your toilet or
sink. Inspect the toilet for any visual cracks. If the toilet
rocks and is loose to the floor, it is time to reset it with
a new wax seal that prevents sewer gasses to escape. It also
may be found that the flange has a poor connection to the
pipe that can cause the odor of gasses.
Check for cracks and loose connections on the discharge side
of the sink trap. They may need repair or replacement. In
an uncommon situation, I have zeroed in on the smell coming
from build-up between the inner and outer layers of the sink
what is used as an overflow passage. Thoroughly flush out
with bleach or other cleaning agent to kill any bacteria that
may have formed.
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Water Heater Leaking Back
To Top
Q:
My
water heater is leaking. Is it possible to repair it without
buying a new one?
A:
How
old is your water heater? They have a life expectancy of about
ten years, though you hear of some that last longer, and some
that go sooner.
If your tank is leaking from a fitting, it probably can be
fixed. If it is leaking from the tank, such as a rust spot
or a seam, it is time to get it replaced before the inevitable
flood comes.
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Winterizing Back
To Top
Q:
How do I winterize a vacant house? Should
I drain the hot water heater? Should I put anti freeze down
the toilet? The water is turned off. What else should I do.
Should the heat be left on just above freezing?
A:
First
of all, it is advisable to leave the heat on very low. A minimal
heating bill will be less expensive than the cost of potential
repairs if everything were to freeze up.
If you have turned off the water, hopefully that means the
house was plumbed on a downgrade so you were able to drain
all the pipes completely and eliminate the chance of water
expanding inside them and breaking the pipes.
If not, it usually is advisable to leave some water running
through the pipes by turning on the fixture closest to where
water enters the house and at the farthest point indoors,
say in an upstairs bathroom. It needs to trickle constantly
to keep water flowing. It is also advisable to wrap insulation
around the water heater, the pipes leading to and from it
and also insulate any pipes exposed outdoors, in a crawl space
under the house, etc. If the pilot light is left on, it is
not necessary to drain the water heater, but if not, then
it probably should be drained and turned off. You might call
a local plumbing company in your area to discuss whether you
should turn the water back on or not.
It is not a bad idea to put some anti-freeze in both the tank
and the bowl of each toilet. If the heat goes out and water
inside the toilets freezes, it could crack the china fixtures.
Finally, make sure someone checks on the house every week
or two, if at all possible.
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Furnace Repair Back
To Top
Q:
I started my furnace and set it at the temperature I needed.
It ran fine and did reach the temperature, but after a few
minutes it kicked on again. It would run for approximately
ten minutes and shut off. The furnace is about 20 years old,
and I had it cleaned and serviced last year.
A:
You need to have a heating and air conditioning expert come
look at your furnace. However, do not be surprised if they
recommend you get a new heating system. It may be much more
efficient and economical than an older one that may continue
to break down.
To locate a reliable heating and air conditioning specialist
to come look at your furnace and determine whether it can
be repaired, or would be more economical in the long run to
replace it.
Although heating and air conditioning companies usually charge
for service calls whether you choose to have them repair the
system or not, they almost always give free estimates on installing
or replacing systems. If you decide to buy a new one, don't
automatically sign a contract with the first company that
gives you an estimate, even if you think you want to hire
them to do the job. New equipment is too large an investment
to make a snap decision, and reputable firms will respect
your desire to do your homework and get comparable bids.
Be sure to talk to at least three different companies and
carefully compare their bids for the size of system recommended,
manufacturer warranties on both parts and labor, and any extra
ductwork they may recommend before making a final choice.
Collecting competitive bids is always the best way to make
sure you have all the information you need to choose the best
product, as well as, the service provider you would prefer
working with.
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Gas Smell After Cleaning The Furnace
Back To Top
Q:
My
furnace is 35 years old. I called a company to have the ducts
and furnace cleaned. The service person did not turn the pilot
light on and 2 days later I smelled gas. I called the company
and they said they would come out but no one showed. So I
called the gas company to light it. The gasman came and said
I had a leak and red tagged it. I did not sign the tag. The
second day I got a letter from the gas company stating that
a gas leak was not found. I was confused so I called them
and they sent another serviceman and that said it needed a
new gas valve. This time I signed the red tag. I have not
given up thinking that the reason I smelled gas was because
the pilot light was off. And it does not need repair. Who
can I talk to for an honest answer? And is there a reputable
company that will make the repair? I am willing to pay a reasonable
price and I do not want a new furnace. I am a senior. Should
I call a consumer protection agency?
A:
First,
there is no reason for the Heating/Duct cleaning Service Professional
to turn on the pilot light to clean your furnace or ducts.
You would have had to know if the pilot went out before the
Professional started the service because if it was, he may
of thought it was intentional.
Typically, the pilot is shut off to begin service and would
be re-lit (unless forgotten in error). And now that your furnace
has been tagged, you will need a licensed heating professional
to check it out and sign the tag off before the gas company
will turn your gas back on. Getting a new gas valve for your
30-year-old furnace is a good idea anyway, because the new
ones are far safer than the original type.
The best course would be for you to call about different plumbing
& heating companies, explain your situation, and see what
they tell you. It’s unlikely for them to give you an
estimate over the phone, but of how much they will charge
to come take a look, install a new gas valve and sign off
on the tag. You might want to ask the original company that
did the cleaning to give you an estimate, but talking to a
couple different companies is the best way to be sure of fair
market trip charges, and then you can choose the one you prefer
to hire.
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Moisture Build-up on Windows Back
To Top
Q:
What
do I do about moisture building up on my windows?
A:
Condensation
has become an increasing overwhelming issue. Energy conservation
causes modern homes to be built (or retrofitted) so air tight
that all kinds of problems result in our homes, including
excess moisture, molds, allergens and other indoor air pollutants
that endanger our health as well as our property.
Solving moisture problems often requires a process of elimination,
first to figure out where the excess moisture is coming from
and secondly, how to get rid of it.
Steps to reduce condensation include installing thermal pane
windows; consulting with a heating and air specialist to see
about increasing air circulation and perhaps adding a dehumidifier;
increasing attic ventilation; waterproofing foundations and
basements; installing drainage to divert water away from the
home and/or sump pumps to remove water that accumulates under
the house. Serious problems may require the services of Industrial
Hygienists and Water Damage Restoration specialists.
For more information you can visit the following websites:
http://www.enosdavison.com/.
Mr. Davison, "The Condensation Man," has been solving
condensation and ventilation problems since 1973. He offers
a couple of different handbooks with information he provides
in his seminars and workshops which may help you solve the
problem yourself or direct you to the most appropriate professional
help.
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Not Enough Heat or A/C on 2nd Floor
Back To Top
Q:
I have a two-story house. The problem I am having is that
the airflow downstairs is perfect. The airflow upstairs, however,
is minimal. Besides adding separate heating and air conditioning
units for the upstairs, what options do I have? Thanks for
the help.
A:
I suggest you ask a few heating and air conditioning specialists
to come analyze your system and see what they would recommend.
Discussing it with several different experts is almost always
the best way to determine how to tackle a project, find the
costs and decide which professional you would prefer to hire.
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Air Conditioning Just Stopped
Back To Top
Q:
I have a problem with my A/C. It’s a central unit. It
was working, then it just stopped like there was no power.
It’s only 3 yrs old. I have misplaced the warranty. Please
send tips. I went outside, opened the unit, pressed down the
relay and it was on, does this mean it’s the thermostat?
There is normally a spark when I take the cover off, but now
there is nothing.
A:
It
sounds like you have no power. I suggest you check the fuses.
To do that:
1. Turn off the circuit breaker to the air conditioner in
the main panel.
2. Turn off the disconnect switch in the box next to the air
conditioning unit.
3. Remove the two fuses and take them to a hardware store.
4. Hopefully, the unit will come back on when you install
new fuses.
If not, call an air conditioning specialist to diagnose the
problem. Be sure to find out what caused it for a solution
to prevent it from happening again.
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Air Conditioning Maintenance
Back To Top
Q:
Is
there anything I can do to maintain my air conditioning unit?
A:
Yes.
The first thing to check before turning on your unit is to
make sure the condensing unit located outside is not covered
up. The unit needs to draw air into the system in order to
have something to cool and blow out inside, but the process
is hindered if it cannot pull enough air in from outside.
We're amazed how many homeowners call because their air conditioner
isn't cooling their house, only to find they forgot they had
temporarily stacked lawn furniture, bags of leaves and lawn
clippings, etc. around their outside unit over the winter.
Some people intentionally cover their condenser to "protect"
it from the elements during the winter, although these units
are designed for outdoor installation and require no protection
at all.
Here are some basic tips:
Run your air conditioner for a few minutes now, before you
need it. If you wait until the first hot day to discover is
isn't working, you'll find yourself on a waiting list, sweltering
sometimes for days before an air conditioning specialist can
come to fix it.
Change the filters regularly. Dirty filters restrict air flow,
reducing efficiency and worse case, can cause the evaporator
to ice up. Disposable fiberglass filters should replaced.
Electrostatic or electronic filters need to be washed regularly.
Be sure all access panels are secure, with all the screws
in place.
Clean obvious obstructions such as newspaper, leaves, etc.
from around the exterior of the unit.
Be sure the thermostat is set in the cooling mode. Just setting
the dial below room temperature will not activate the air
conditioning if it is set in the heat mode.
Run your air conditioner for a few minutes now, before you
need it. If you wait until the first hot day to discover is
isn't working, you'll find yourself on a waiting list, sweltering
sometimes for days before an air conditioning specialist can
come to fix it.
Change the filters regularly. Dirty filters restrict airflow,
reducing efficiency and worse case, can cause the evaporator
to ice up. Disposable fiberglass filters should replaced.
Electrostatic or electronic filters need to be washed regularly.
Be sure all access panels are secure, with all the screws
in place.
Clean obvious obstructions such as newspaper, leaves, etc.
from around the exterior of the unit.
Be sure the thermostat is set in the cooling mode. Just setting
the dial below room temperature will not activate the air
conditioning if it is set in the heat mode.
A thoroughly cleaned air conditioning unit will operate at
top efficiency. However, homeowners are strongly discouraged
from using a hose and water to try clean it themselves because
of the very serious risk of electrical shock and possible
shorting of electrical components.
Like most anything you own, you will find that regular maintenance
sooner is far less costly than repairs or even replacement
later.
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Concrete Slab Under Compressor For
Replacement Back To Top
Q:
I am having a new central air system installed and need to
repair and raise the concrete slab before the installers come.
I am not sure how to disconnect the old unit to remove it
before fixing the pad. Do I need the freon discharged before
I start disconnecting the unit's piping to move it?
A:
If
you have a single heating and air conditioning system that
is contained within one unit, it will be no problem to just
unhook all the piping before moving it.
However, if you have a split system with the air conditioning
unit outdoors and the heating unit/furnace located elsewhere,
then by law you need to have a licensed heating & air
specialist come disconnect it because of the chance of leaking
freon into the environment. I suggest you talk to the company
that will be installing it and have them come do that for
you.
If they can't get that done before you need to disconnect
it to fix the concrete pad, you can usually find someone in
the yellow pages that provide quick response.
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Ventilation Problem Back
To Top
Q:
I
have a question concerning a central air conditioner in my
home. The supply air is run thru ductwork in the attic. These
ducts are insulated but condensation builds up internally
and drips back into the house through the supply vents in
the ceiling. How can I correct this problem before it causes
any more damage to the ceiling, floors, furniture, etc.? Do
I need more insulation around the ductwork in the attic?
A: This
sounds more like a ventilation problem. When it is much warmer
inside the home than outside, the heat naturally rises up,
condenses in the warm ductwork, and drips back down into the
living space. So insulating the ductwork would only compound
the problem. Rather, you need adequate ventilation in the
attic area so the warm air can circulate and escape. This
could include gable vents or even dormers to keep the air
moving. Proper attic ventilation will also help keep the attic
dry to help prevent dryrot, mold, mildew and prolong the life
of your roof. You will need to contact a general contractor
to do this for you.
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